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Kedarnath (11,753 ft.) is sacred to the god Shiva, in his form as Kedarnath (the "Lord of Kedar"). The site lies at the headwaters of the Mandakini River, a Himalayan tributary of the Ganges. Kedarnath is at such high elevation it closes for 5-6 months of the year, from November to May. In this picture (late April 1986) the entire site was still covered with 2 feet of snow); the surrounding peaks are always snow clad.

In June 2013 Kedarnath suffered a devastating flash flood (apdaa, click here for a link). I have retained these previous pages for historical context.

The image of Shiva in the Kedarnath temple is "self-manifested" (svayambhu), formed from a natural ridge of stone. Since such images are seen as places where the deity has revealed himself/herself as an act of grace, they are considered especially holy. The silver canopy hanging above the stone is carried as a symbol of the deity in procession to the deity's winter home in Ukhimath.

Photo courtesy Luke Whitmore.

This photo from June 2005 was taken at the height of the summer pilgrimage season, as the crowd density clearly shows. In 1986 this was the town's only street, but the ensuing years saw considerable building on both sides (much of which was destroyed in 2013). Notice too how much the people are bundled up, since the highs in the days were only in the 50s and 60s (and for many Indians, this qualifies as "very" cold).

Road connections end at Gaurikund, after which people must ascend on foot or horseback (or now by helicopter). This photo (Nov. 2005) shows the steepest part of the old 9 mile path, in the section between Rambara and Garur Chatti (miles 5 and 6). When one is on the down side looking up, it seems even longer!

Landslides in the June 2013 flood (apdaa,) caved in the mountainside and destroyed this part of the path. The new path runs on the river's other side.

This ascetic's hut (kuti) was on the path leading to Kedarnath. Many ascetics build huts along the path seeking patronage from pilgrims passing by. Giving such patronage (money or supplies) generates religious merit, since they are supporting people devoting their lives to religious practice. For many ascetics smoking intoxicating drugs (in imitation of Shiva ) is part of their daily practice; he is holding a chillum, a baked clay cylinder used to smoke a mixture of tobacco and hashish. The markings on his forehead and temples identify him as a Naga Sanyasi. These were ascetics who used to make their living as traders and mercenary soldiers. Despite this history he was extremely gentle and soft-spoken. I have often wondered whether this was Himalaya Giri, an ascetic whose samadhi shrine is along the path at Hanuman Chatti (May 1986)

Giving charity on pilgrimage is a meritorious act, and the constant pilgrim flow ensures a continuing supply of donors. This blind musician had set up a hut beside the trail, and was playing his harmonium and singing devotional songs. During the difficult uphill climb his songs not only distracted the pilgrims, but also reminded them why they were traveling. This picture is from May 1986, but I saw this same man in June 2002.

The Kedarnath route is so strenuous that many people simply cannot do it on their own. Most hire ponies, but some travel in palanquins carried by 4 men, and others in wicker baskets carried by one. For the carriers the pilgrim trade provides steady but exhausting work--especially since they typically make two round trips every day!

Traditional plgrimage manuals give higher marks for walking there under one's own power, but these sites are seen as so holy that every visitor gains religious benefits.

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